12 Lawn Care Myths [DEBUNKED]

Unearth the truth behind popular lawn care myths! From mowing mistakes to watering woes, we’re setting the record straight on 12 common misconceptions. Dive in to discover the secrets to a lush, green lawn.

Lawn Myths Busted: The Truth Behind Common Lawn Care Misconceptions

If you’re like most homeowners, you want a beautiful, lush, green lawn that makes your neighbors envious. But with the wealth of confusing—and often downright false—information surrounding lawn care, it can be a challenge separating fact from fiction.

Let’s dig into some of the most common lawn care myths, discuss why they’re mistaken, and reveal the proper practices you need for a thriving landscape.

Myth #1: Mowing Low Makes Your Lawn Look Like a Golf Course

It’s tempting to take your mower blades down to the lowest notch with hopes of achieving that flawless, manicured golf course look in your own yard. However, taking a standard rotary mower to the lowest cutting height settings can actually scalp and cause damage to your lawn.

Here’s why: Golf courses utilize specialized reel mowers with bedknives designed for incredibly low cutting heights. They also use particular grass types like ultra-dwarf Bermudagrass cultivars that can tolerate being mowed to heights as low as 1/8”.

These dwarf grass varieties have been bred specifically to withstand very low mowing and rigorous maintenance routines. Your common Kentucky bluegrass, fescue, or zoysia lawn does not have the same characteristics. Dropping your routine rotary mower to its lowest wheel setting will likely shear off the grass blades and expose tender crowns. This can lead to an unhealthy, stressed lawn.

Instead, maintain your lawn at the ideal mowing height range recommended for your specific grass type. This provides a neat, consistent appearance without putting undue stress on the plants. Kentucky bluegrass and tall fescue, for example, thrive when kept between 2-3”. Bermudagrass does best around 1-2” height. Exceeding or dropping below these optimal ranges can lead to problems.

While your home lawn likely won’t ever match the flawlessness of a golf course, keeping your mower set at suitable heights will help your grass look lush while staying healthy. Proper mowing, along with fertilization, irrigation, and other best practices suited to your grass cultivar, are key for an enviable landscape.

Myth #2: It’s Easy to Have a Backyard Putting Green

For golf enthusiasts, having a personal putting green installed in the backyard is often viewed as an ultimate landscaping dream. But contrary to popular belief, maintaining a true backyard putting green requires an immense amount of rigorous work.

The lush, meticulously manicured putting greens you see at golf courses are made up of a very high maintenance grass variety called creeping bentgrass. This cool season turfgrass tolerates extremely low mowing heights—often down to 1/8”—that would ruin most common lawn grasses.

However, getting those flawlessly smooth putting surfaces requires far more intensive care than typical lawn maintenance. In addition to daily mowing, properly managing bentgrass putting greens demands regular:

• Rolling to further smooth and firm the surface
• Topdressing with sand to fill in uneven spots
• Aerating to alleviate soil compaction
• Heavy fertilization to drive fast growth
• Constant irrigation to supply adequate moisture
• Plus, careful attention to disease and weed control

Simply installing bentgrass turf doesn’t automatically give you a golf-quality putting green. The amount of mowing, rolling, watering, fertilizing, and general babying the grass needs goes far beyond what the average homeowner is willing to commit to.

Additionally, bentgrass naturally grows so fast that without intensive care, it can quickly turn weedy and bumpy. Its high water and nutrient requirements also make bentgrass very prone to problems like fungal diseases. This temperamental grass is extremely challenging for residential settings.

Now, you can certainly have a practice putting green in your yard using easier-to-manage grass varieties. But understanding the rigorous, daily needs of real golf course greens illustrates why achieving that perfection in your own landscape is nearly impossible without a dedicated grounds crew.

Myth #3: Moles Tunnels Mean You Have Grubs

A common reaction when you discover unsightly mole tunnels popping up in your lawn is to assume their activity means you have a destructive grub infestation. However, the presence of moles does not necessarily indicate a harmful white grub problem.

Here are the facts on the mole and grub link:

Moles are insectivores, meaning they primarily feed on insects and other invertebrates living in the soil. Although white grubs may make up a small portion of their diet, moles largely subsist on earthworms, beetle larvae, ants, and other small prey abundant in lawns.

Several research studies have found that earthworms alone can comprise up to 90% of moles’ food sources. One analysis of mole stomach contents discovered on average only around 5% of their diet consisted of white grubs.

So while moles certainly will eat grubs if they encounter them, the tunnels do not automatically signal you have a harmful infestation requiring treatment with insecticides. Moles may simply be feasting on naturally high earthworm populations common in healthy lawns and gardens.

The best way to determine if grubs are actually damaging your lawn is through close inspection. Look for large dead or dying patches that can be rolled back like a carpet to reveal grubs underneath. If grass roots are sparse and damage is severe, then grub control measures may be warranted.

Otherwise, tolerance or physical removal of moles through trapping or natural repellents is likely the better solution. Avoid dousing your lawn with grub killers without first confirming they are a true problem. And remember, some mole activity can actually be beneficial by aerating and mixing the soil.

Myth #4: Placing Chewing Gum Down Mole Tunnels Will Kill Them

An oft-repeated suggestion found on internet forums and blogs is to place sticks of chewing gum into mole tunnels. The claim is that when moles eat the gum, it will kill them or force them to leave your yard. However, there is zero scientific proof that this home remedy works to eliminate moles.

No research has ever confirmed that chewing gum ingested by moles causes death or even harm. Wildlife biologists also doubt moles would even consume gum placed into their tunnels. More likely, they would just avoid it or push it aside, as they do with other objects obstructing their paths.

There are a couple plausible explanations for how this mole gum myth originated:

• The menthol odor of mint gum was thought to possibly repel moles. However, natural repellents using castor oil or garlic extracts are much more effective.
• The idea that sticking gum in the tunnels might block moles’ movements. But this is only a very temporary barrier as the persistent moles just dig around it.

While creative, placing chewing gum down mole runs is clearly not an effective control method. If moles are problematic in your yard, rely on proven tactics like trapping, exclusion fencing, or deterrents instead of far-fetched gum remedies. With patience, you can successfully evict moles without resorting to odd tricks.

Myth #5: Apply Fertilizer to Lawns in the Spring

Walk down the lawn care aisle at any home and garden center in springtime and you’ll undoubtedly see bags of fertilizer touting messages about “spring feeding for lush green lawns.” However, blindly throwing down high nitrogen fertilizer in spring just because of marketing claims can often do more harm than good.

It’s important to understand when seasonal fertilization is truly beneficial, based on your grass species and needs determined by soil testing. Here’s some of the science behind spring lawn feeding:

• Cool-season grasses like fescue, bluegrass, and ryegrass grow most vigorously in fall and can experience surge growth from spring feeding that leads to disease issues.
• Warm-season grasses including zoysia, Bermuda, and St. Augustine are just emerging from winter dormancy in spring, so the extra growth spurt from fertilizer is rarely desired.
• Quick spring green-up from synthetic fertilizers is often just that – a temporary visual effect without improving the soil or roots in a lasting way.
• Excess nitrogen not used by the plants can leach out and pollute groundwater. Much applied fertilizer ends up just running off lawns.
• Heavy top growth stimulated by fertilizer leads to increased mowing requirements, more disease susceptibility, and potential lawn damage.

This isn’t to say you should never fertilize in spring, especially if soil tests show certain nutrients are lacking. But the wise approach is to base feeding schedules on actual lawn needs rather than package calendars. Also, organic options like compost and corn gluten fertilizers provide gentle nutrition without excessive top growth issues.

For most northern cool-season lawns, the ideal feeding window is early fall when grass plants are actively growing and can properly take up and utilize the nutrients. So be wary of blanket spring fertilizer directives and carefully tailor applications to your lawn’s specific soil deficiencies and seasonal requirements.

Myth #6: Spring is the Best Time to Overseed Your Lawn

You’ll often hear that spring is the perfect opportunity to thicken up thin, patchy areas of your lawn by overseeding with new grass seed. However, this well-entrenched lawn care myth only holds true for warm-season southern grasses. When it comes to cool-season northern grasses, fall is actually the ideal time for overseeding.

The reasons why fall overseeding works best for fescue, bluegrass, ryegrass, and similar varieties include:

• Moderate fall temperatures allow new grass to germinate and establish before cold weather arrives.
• Cooler fall weather means less competition from crabgrass and other weeds.
• Overseeded grass has the winter to develop deeper roots before going dormant.
• Soil moisture is still adequate in fall, eliminating the need to heavily water newly seeded areas.
• Fertilizer applied when overseeding feeds new growth without risk of spring disease.

Come next spring, your fall-seeded lawn will have a huge leg up for greening up its thickest ever. The conditions are simply more favorable for cool-season grass growth and establishment in autumn compared to spring.

Now, this changes if you live in warm southern zones with Bermuda, zoysia, or other warm-season grasses. These varieties do their main growing in summer and need spring overseeding to fill in before the scorching weather arrives. But for the majority of U.S. lawns, choose fall as the prime time to thicken up your lawn.

Myth #7: The Fertilizer Bag Numbers Don’t Matter

Have you ever reached for a bag of fertilizer and wondered about those three mysterious numbers displayed prominently on the label? If so, you’re not alone. Many homeowners don’t recognize that those numbers represent the essential macronutrients nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium that grass plants need.

Reading fertilizer labels properly is key to choosing products tailored to your lawn’s specific needs. Let’s break down what the fertilizer numbers mean:

The first number shown as a percentage is the amount of nitrogen (N), responsible for green leafy growth and shoot development. Too little nitrogen means weak, yellowed turf; too much causes excessive top growth and potential disease issues.

The second number represents phosphorus content (P), which aids in root system growth, stress tolerance, and seedling establishment. Most mature lawns only need phosphorus supplements every few years.

Finally, the amount of potassium (K) is displayed third, promoting overall hardiness, wear resistance, drought tolerance, and recovery potential. Potassium may need replenishing annually depending on soil deficiencies.

Zero in these spots means the fertilizer lacks that particular nutrient. Well-balanced lawn fertilizer blends will carry N-P-K ratios ideal for turf grass, like a 20-5-10 or 15-0-15 formulation.

The right N-P-K feeding strategy depends on your grass type, season, soil test results, and specific lawn issues. Rather than guessing, have your soil analyzed to tailor fertility based on actual nutrient levels and needs. Paying attention to those mysterious fertilizer numbers makes a big difference!

Myth #8: You Can Grow Lush Grass Even in Heavy Shade

When dealing with a heavily shaded yard, it’s tempting to keep struggling to grow grass where it just won’t thrive. Some mistakenly believe that as long as they use an ultra shade-tolerant variety, grass should fill in eventually even in deep darkness.

The truth is even the most shade-adapted grass varieties need at least 4-6 hours of direct sun daily to flourish. Without sufficient light intensity reaching the plants, lackluster performance is inevitable.

Why even the best shade grasses still require some sun:

• Sunlight fuels photosynthesis and food production for growth. Too little sun starves the plants.
• Weak, spindly turf with poor density results from low light.
• Shaded areas encourage moss, algae, and weed growth due to lack of sun penetration.
• Diseases like brown patch and dollar spot thrive in prolonged moisture and humidity common to heavily shaded environments.
• Grass plants stretch and become more open in futile attempts to reach some sunlight.

The best solution for seriously shaded areas of your landscape not receiving at least 4 hours of direct sun is to switch to shade-loving alternatives. Groundcovers, perennials, mulched beds, and hardscapes are better options for poor-light zones.

Accepting that certain heavily shaded areas won’t support healthy turfgrass growth allows you to move forward with shade-appropriate plants and elements. Even the most tolerant grass needs some sunlight to perform its best.

Myth #9: Moss Problems Indicate Too Much Shade

It’s a common assumption that if your lawn is invaded by clumps of stringy, matted moss, the cause must be excessive shade. While it’s true that moss thrives in the low-light, damp conditions found in dense shade, that’s not the only contributor to mossy lawns.

In many cases, over-watering and poor drainage fertilize moss growth just as much as lack of sunlight. Even in lawns receiving sufficient sun, keeping the soil too wet and compacted creates an ideal environment for moss to displace grass plants.

That’s because moss favors wet, acidic, infertile soils where grass struggles. Additionally, thick layers of accumulated thatch prevent water penetration and create consistently damp conditions on the soil surface perfect for moss to move in.

The best ways to combat a mossy lawn include:

• Improving drainage through aeration if compacted and heavy clay soils are the issue.
• Adjusting irrigation schedules to allow the ground to thoroughly dry out between waterings.
• Raising mower heights to avoid scalping the grass blades and exposing soil.
• Topdressing lawns with calcified clay or lime to raise the pH out of the ideal range for moss.
• Dethatching to remove excess debris layers that enable moss.

So while deep shade certainly contributes to moss problems, addressing drainage, soil pH, overwatering, and thatch issues provides the most effective and lasting control. Evaluate all potential moss-encouraging factors for the best results.

Myth #10: Wearing Cleats While Mowing Aerates Your Lawn

In the quest for a simple, no-cost way to aerate their lawns, some homeowners have taken to wearing athletic cleats or golf shoes while mowing. The thought is that trampling across the lawn with spike-bottomed shoes will substitute for mechanical aeration. But does this unusual technique work?

Here’s the reality:

• The limited soil penetration from shoe spikes cannot compare to proper core aeration that removes plugs 2-3” deep to alleviate compaction.
• At most, cleats may poke 1/4 to 1/2” into the soil with each step – not enough to have lasting impact.
• Trampling grass while mowing can actually compact the soil more rather than aerate it.
• Trying to walk aerators across an entire lawn would be exhausting and impractical.
• The small holes from cleats rapidly close back up and do not allow air circulation into the soil root zone.
• No scientific studies have shown cleat-aerating during mowing provides tangible benefits.

While creative, mowing in golf or soccer cleats offers negligible aerating effects compared to proven methods like core aeration. Machines that actively pull cores or spikes up to 3” deep are vastly more effective and affordable than cleats.

Leave your cleats in the locker room and stick to traditional lawn aeration techniques to enjoy a truly healthy, thriving landscape. If aerating by foot, shoes with soft rubber spikes minimize potential damage while still being gentle.

Myth #11: Returning Grass Clippings Leads to Thatch Buildup

Many lawn enthusiasts insist removing all mowed grass clipping to avoid developing a thick layer of thatch. However, leaving clippings on your lawn using a mulching mower will not cause harmful thatch accumulation.

Here’s some science to debunk the myth that grass cycling leads to thatch:

• Thatch is made up of intermingled stems, roots and other compressed organic matter, not grass blades which decompose rapidly.
• Mulched grass blades break down quickly, returning nitrogen and moisture to the soil.
• Clippings left on lawns only contribute about 5-10% to thatch formation.
• Grass plants continuously shed old leaves and stems which are the primary cause of thatch, not new cuttings.
• Mulching mowers finely chop clippings for faster rotting. Bagging does not reduce this natural plant shedding.
• Proper mowing height, watering, and fertilization keep lawns healthy for less thatch production.

So recycling grass clippings directly back into your lawn provides free fertilizer with no thatch concerns. While a thin layer of thatch is normal, following best care practices will prevent problematic accumulation.

Let your new mulching mower do work for you by fertilizing with every cut. No more bagging or raking – just pure green lawn convenience. Leave those clippings and let your grass show its stuff!

Myth #12: More Water Means Your Lawn Will Be Greener and Thicker

It makes logical sense that to have the lushest, thickest lawn on the block, you need to heavily water as often as possible. But in reality, over-irrigating leads to a host of problems. Here’s why more water doesn’t equal better turfgrass:

• Excess moisture promotes shallow root development instead of deep, robust roots that make grass more drought resistant.
• Too much water can leach nutrients like nitrogen out of the soil so they are unavailable to plants.
• Heavy watering leads to fungus and disease issues that thrive in continually wet conditions.
• Over-saturated soils lack the oxygen circulation needed by grass roots.
• Runoff from excessive irrigation wastes water, carries pollutants into storm drains and adds to groundwater contamination.

For optimal lawn health, rely on less frequent, deeper watering practices to train grass roots to grow downward. Follow the motto “water deeper, less often” for lush results using less water overall.

Proper mowing height, fertilization, soil preparation and grass species selection for your climate also ensure your lawn thrives without over-watering. A healthy, thriving lawn starts from the roots up – not by just dousing it at the surface. Dial back the sprinklers and let your turf prosper the right way.

FAQ:

Still have questions about common lawn care misconceptions? Here are answers to some frequently asked questions:

Q: Is it really a myth that moles mean you have grubs? What else attracts moles?

A: Yes, it’s a myth that tunnels indicate harmful grubs. Moles primarily eat earthworms and other soil insects. Grubs make up a very small part of their diet. Ensuring you have high earthworm populations and soil health is key to discouraging moles.

Q: When is the best time to dethatch my lawn?

A: For cool-season grasses, the ideal time is early fall when the lawn is actively growing. Avoid dethatching during summer heat or winter dormancy. Make sure to overseed after dethatching.

Q: How can I get rid of moss in my lawn?

A: Adjusting watering habits, improving drainage, aerating compacted soil, dethatching, and applying lime to raise pH will help reduce moss. Moss indicates excess moisture and acidic soils.

Q: Won’t too much thatch suffocate my grass?

A: A thin layer of thatch (under 1/2″) is fine, but too much prevents water and nutrients from reaching soil and grass roots. Dethatching removes excess thatch buildup.

Q: When should I fertilize my lawn if not in spring?

A: For northern cool-season grasses, the best time is early to mid-fall when plants are still active but growth is slowing. Spring fertilizing risks disease.

Q: How often should I water my lawn in summer?

A: Ideally only 1-2 times per week, supplying 1-1.5″ of water each time. Train your lawn to develop deep roots by watering heavier but less frequently.

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